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Eighty years of science at 5,200 metres

From the weather station a Spanish exile installed in 1942 to the gamma-ray detector being built today. The events marked in red are the ten milestones of the narrative; the rest place them in context.

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Before the laboratory
1927

Millikan's expedition passes by

An expedition led by the American physicist Robert Millikan travels through South America measuring the variation of cosmic radiation with latitude. It involves no Bolivian scientists and leaves no continuity behind.

International
c. 1940

The Bolivian Andean Club builds the road and the hut

The sporting infrastructure of La Paz makes the country's scientific infrastructure possible without knowing it: without that road there is no weather station in 1942.

Institution
Dec 1939

From the Argelès-sur-Mer camp to the ship “Cuba”

Ismael Escobar crossed into France at Le Perthus in January 1939 and was interned at Argelès-sur-Mer. His father managed to get him out; in December he sailed from Bordeaux for the Dominican Republic.

Institution
Jul 1941

Ismael Escobar arrives in Bolivia

A meteorologist of the Spanish Republican Air Force, a refugee after the Civil War. He left Paris on one of the last trains and reached the Caribbean on a French ship.

Institution
4 Jul 1942

The site is declared a National Park

A supreme decree protects the Andean group between the Condoriri and Yungas passes: Huayna Potosí, Chacaltaya and the Milluni lagoon. It is not a nominal declaration: it bans hunting, entrusts surveillance to the Andean Patrol of the Bolivian Andean Club with the standing of rural police, and subjects all construction to special permission. That last article is what will oblige the University to obtain a permit in 1949 in order to build the observatory. Protection of the site predates the first scientific instrument by two months.

InstitutionMilestone 01📄 Document in the archive
Sept 1942

The weather station at 5,200 metres

Escobar installs on Chacaltaya a station of the national weather network, with instruments to measure the weather and the intensity of solar radiation. Raúl Posnanski and Alfredo Hendel take part. This mountain's first measurement was not of the cosmos but of the atmosphere.

AtmosphereMilestone 01
1943

The summit hut and the journal Nimbus

A weather hut is inaugurated at the summit, at 5,600 m, and the Meteorological Service's scientific journal begins publication. The complete run is held in the IIF library.

Atmosphere⚠ date to be verified
19 Jun 1943

UMSA appoints Escobar as a professor

Official letter 54/953: Interim Professor of Cosmography and Meteorology. The University's link to the science of the mountain predates the Laboratory's formal creation by nine years.

Institution
The discovery
1946

Pic du Midi: two events

Occhialini exposes the new Ilford emulsions in the Pyrenees, at 2,900 m. Marietta Kurz, a microscopist at Bristol, identifies the first double meson. Two cases are a hint, not a proof: more altitude was needed.

Science
24 May 1947

Nature 159, 694

"Processes involving charged mesons", by Lattes, Muirhead, Occhialini and Powell. The Pic du Midi result.

Science
1947

César Lattes exposes the plates on Chacaltaya

He travels on his holidays and essentially at his own expense. Some forty days of exposure at 5,200 m. Developed in Bristol, the plates yield some thirty double-meson tracks.

Science⚠ 1946 or 1947 depending on the source
4 & 11 Oct 1947

The pi meson is established

Nature 160, 453 and 486. Lattes, Occhialini and Powell report "forty examples of the process leading to the production of secondary mesons", with plates exposed in the Bolivian Andes. It was not one particle: it was two. Chacaltaya enters the world scientific literature.

ScienceMilestone 02
12 Mar 1948

The first artificial pions

Gardner and Lattes, in Science: the Berkeley synchrocyclotron had been producing pions from day one, only nobody knew how to recognise them. This is the moment particle physics begins to move from the mountain to the machine.

Science
Jan 1949

The CBPF is founded in Rio de Janeiro

The prestige of the finding underpins the creation of the Centro Brasileiro de Pesquisas Físicas, with Lattes as scientific director at the age of 24. The CNPq will follow in 1951.

International
1949 · 1950

Two Nobel Prizes in Physics

Hideki Yukawa (1949) for predicting the particle; Cecil Powell (1950) for the photographic method and his discoveries regarding mesons. Both citations describe, without naming it, a result obtained with plates exposed here.

Science
The founding
1949

Escobar submits the draft plan for the observatory

He submits it to the Rector of UMSA and publishes it in Nimbus. As the site lies within a National Park, the University obtains a special permit: article 5 of the 1942 decree requires one. The Minister of Agriculture will grant it in a note to the Rector on 11 January 1952. The Laboratory was not built in spite of the protection regime, but within it.

InstitutionMilestone 03📄 Document in the archive
1951

The University Council creates the Laboratory

Defined as a "centre for research, teaching and meteorological observation", operated partly by UMSA and partly by the Meteorological Service.

InstitutionMilestone 03
1952

The founding act, three times over

Official activities from 1 January, with Escobar as first director. Supreme Decree 02921, of 9 January, declares the construction of the observatory to be of public necessity and utility. On 3 March, students, friends and members of the Andean Club carry an aluminium hut up the mountain by hand. In December the CBPF–UMSA agreement is signed. Documentary authenticity in three registers: university, state and binational.

InstitutionMilestone 03
Jun 1952

The Laboratory starts publishing

Six months after coming into existence, the first results appear. Under the title Resumen de Labores, one of the oldest scientific journals at UMSA, publication will continue without interruption and will receive, in 1962, the national "Faja Verde" Prize for the best scientific and technological work in Bolivia.

InstitutionMilestone 04
The world climbs the mountain
1952–1954

Expeditions from more than ten countries

The United States, Brazil, Great Britain, Japan, India, Italy, France, Argentina and the Soviet Union, among others. The Brazilian Air Force carries staff and equipment free of charge on its Rio–La Paz flights until the 1970s.

InternationalMilestone 04
1954

The power line, and eight names

226 pylons, more than two tonnes of copper wire and 160 km of line dismantled from a tin mine and carried up to the mountain. The interconnection was achieved by Juan Hersil and Alfonso Lazo with eight workers: José and Eusebio Monasterios, Arturo López, Tiburcio Quisucala, Vicente Cabaya, Marcos Calisaya, Honorio Paco and Ceferino Quilla. Without that line there is no BASJE and no sixty years of data.

InstitutionMilestone 04
1955

First Inter-American Course in Modern Physics

In collaboration with UNESCO, with physicists from Argentina, Bolivia, Brazil, Chile, Ecuador and Paraguay. One of the instructors, the Argentine philosopher Mario Bunge, published his book La Edad del Universo in La Paz during the course.

InternationalMilestone 05
7 Jun 1956

The proposal that starts it all

Ismael Escobar puts before the UMSA rectorate the creation of a National Institute of Nuclear Research. Rector Gastón Aráoz accepts and suggests adding a Department of Mathematical Research, considering the development of that science urgent in Bolivia; Escobar proposes the mathematician Wilhelm Damköhler to head it. The country's nuclear energy commission comes out of this.

InstitutionMilestone 08
1956

Physics Today devotes an article to the Laboratory

As a place unique in the world for the study of cosmic rays.

InternationalMilestone 04
1957

1st Inter-American Symposium on Cosmic Rays

With UNESCO's cooperation and some 50 papers. That same year Pierre Auger — Director of Natural Sciences at UNESCO — provides the means for the Physical Research Laboratory of Ahmedabad to install its meson telescope on Chacaltaya.

InternationalMilestone 05
15 Aug 1957

Supreme Decree 04715: the International Geophysical Year

The government of Hernán Siles Zuazo sets up the Comité Nacional del Año Geofísico (National Committee for the Geophysical Year), as the Gazette names it. The Laboratory's successes, together with those of the San Calixto Observatory and the Military Geographic Institute, were decisive factors. The Committee will become the Bolivian Geophysical Institute. It is the third of the four supreme decrees in the dossier.

InstitutionMilestone 08
1958

BASJE pilot experiment at El Alto

Forerunner of the Bolivian Air Shower Joint Experiment.

ScienceMilestone 06
1959

Yukawa writes to Lattes

The physicist who predicted the pion proposes a collaboration to the physicist who established it. From that letter the Brazil–Japan Collaboration will be born. That same year Japanese physicists fund two fares to Moscow by selling a popular science book: Minoru Oda and Jun Nishimura travel.

ScienceMilestone 07
The great experiments
13 Feb 1960

The bomb in the Sahara

The atmospheric radioactivity equipment the US Naval Research Laboratory installed at Chacaltaya detects the first French nuclear explosion, carried out at Reggane in the Algerian Sahara. In 1962 John Bland will measure the seven-day delay with which that signal reaches Bolivia. It is dated proof that the atmosphere of the whole planet can be watched from this point.

AtmosphereMilestone 09
1961

BASJE begins measuring

Bolivian Air Shower Joint Experiment, built by George Clark (MIT), Koichi Suga (Tokyo), Kazuaki Murakami (IPCR) and Ismael Escobar: a 60 m² muon detector shielded with galena and concrete; the lead ore was handed over by the Bolivian state by decree, against future tin royalties. First results in 1963. It will provide the first evidence that ultra-high-energy cosmic rays begin to escape the galaxy, and the pioneering steps of gamma-ray astronomy. It will operate without interruption until 2015.

ScienceMilestone 06
Mar 1962

The Bolivian Nuclear Energy Commission is born

Its activities begin, created under the Laboratory's umbrella and with Escobar as its first director. It is the first of a long list of Bolivian scientific institutions to come out of this mountain. In 1983 it will be replaced by IBTEN.

Institution⚠ The founding decree is dated 1960
Apr 1962

The Brazil–Japan Collaboration begins

Fujimoto and Yokoi arrive in Brazil with the first emulsions and set up the pilot experiment on Chacaltaya with Lattes. The instrument — a "sandwich" of lead, X-ray film and nuclear emulsion — is too heavy to fly on a balloon. Hence the mountain.

InternationalMilestone 07
1962

5th Inter-American Symposium on Cosmic Rays

Organised by the Laboratory and UNESCO: 42 speakers from 11 countries and 58 lectures. The proceedings were published under both institutions' names — a locatable document with UNESCO and the Laboratory on the same title page.

InternationalMilestone 05
Jun–Nov 1963

The U.S. Geological Survey photographs the Moon from Chacaltaya

Morris, Ring and Stephens, of the USGS, together with the Bolivian researcher José Antonio Zelaya — invited by Ismael Escobar as an associate researcher — attempt to photograph the Moon's dust clouds at the L4 and L5 libration points with a 6-inch Maksutov-Cassegrain telescope: 17 plates of L4 and 28 of L5. The result was inconclusive, but in 2018 and 2022 a Hungarian team showed that those clouds do exist. It is the one episode in which Chacaltaya looks not upwards but at the Moon.

International⚠ Milestone 09 · Dates to be confirmed
28 Feb 1964

IUPAP declares the site "essential"

Following the International Cosmic Ray Conference in Jaipur, the Cosmic Ray Commission of the International Union of Pure and Applied Physics declares that Chacaltaya (Bolivia) and Kolar (India) "are essential for research in this scientific field". It is the strongest citation in the dossier: a formal, dated and verifiable declaration by the highest world authority in physics.

InternationalMilestone 04
1965

Ozone observation begins

During the International Year of the Quiet Sun, Ramón Schulczewski and Fernando Sheriph begin the measurements. During the total eclipse of 12 November 1966 they will measure ozone profiles and upper-level winds.

AtmosphereMilestone 09
1965

Ozone begins, the original partner leaves

During the International Year of the Quiet Sun, Ramón H. Schulczewski and Fernando Sheriph begin observing atmospheric ozone. The same year the Bolivian Meteorological Service leaves Chacaltaya: twenty-three years of surface data at 5,200 metres come to an end, and the Laboratory loses, in Aguirre's words, "its original partner in the scientific adventure".

AtmosphereMilestone 09
1960s

Two thousand radiosonde flights

From Ovejuyo and later from El Alto, over seven years, in a joint project of the World Meteorological Organization, the United States Air Force Office of Research and UMSA. The profiles of the upper atmosphere over Bolivia are published for the first time, and the daily data are sent to the Miami Hurricane Center. Some sondes fell in remote places and were taken for objects of extraterrestrial origin.

AtmosphereMilestone 09
Oct 1966

The "Superpila" neutron monitor

It joins the atmospheric radioactivity equipment of the US Naval Research Laboratory, with which the first French nuclear explosion in the Sahara was detected.

AtmosphereMilestone 09
12 Nov 1966

Ozone profiles during a total eclipse

Schulczewski and Sheriph measure ozone profiles and high-altitude winds during the total solar eclipse, with the support of the Armed Forces and the work of Max Schreier, Ángel García Ontiveros, Gastón Mejía Brown and Israel Saravia. The observations had international repercussions.

AtmosphereMilestone 09
Jan 1972

Yukawa speaks of Chacaltaya in Kyoto

Carlos Aguirre presents his work on the neutron-to-proton ratio at a seminar at Kyoto University. In the audience is Hideki Yukawa, who recalls fondly his part in the Brazil–Japan project and the discovery of the pi–mu decay at Chacaltaya, the one that earned him the Nobel Prize.

InternationalMilestone 06
1969–1972

Ahead of the accelerators

BASJE measures the proton–air cross section between 3.4 and 8.8 TeV before artificial machines could verify it in that range. A Bolivian mountain measured, with detectors buried under lead, something the world's most expensive accelerators could not yet reach.

ScienceMilestone 06
1969–1971

Ozone closes for good

The ozone project is transferred, at the instruction of the United States Air Force, to the Bolivian Air Force. There it lasts a short time and closes for good; the ionosphere project closes too. Aguirre does not gloss over it: "Continuity was lost in the study of a subject of enormous current importance in which Bolivia was acquiring great experience. The understanding between air forces prevailed over scientific rationality."

AtmosphereMilestone 09
1970

The 6th Inter-American Seminar, the last one

The sixth and last edition of the series begun in 1957. It was organised by Ramón H. Schulczewski, Gastón Mejía and Carlos Aguirre, and President Ovando Candia received the participants. That a head of state should host a cosmic-ray conference says something about the place the Laboratory held in the country.

InternationalMilestone 05
1972 ⚠

The Laboratory is renamed Instituto de Investigaciones Físicas

The Institute's archive dates the change of name to 1972, during Gastón Mejía's directorship. Aguirre Bastos's book describes it as a University decision taken between 1970 and 1973, with the transformation carried through from September 1973 by Aguirre himself, who between 1973 and 1975 also heads the University's Research Planning and Coordination Centre, with seventeen institutes in his charge. None of the three dates has yet been checked against the University Council resolution.

InstitutionMilestone 08
1973

Saitama and Turin come up the mountain

Two new groups arrive to study small air showers: one from Saitama University, led by Tsuneo Matano — the experiment known as SYS, for Saitama, Yamanashi and San Andrés: the acronym carries the Bolivian university's name inside it — and one from the University of Turin, led by Giani Navarra. The Italian group will still be publishing from Chacaltaya in the year 2000: twenty-seven years of continuous presence.

ScienceMilestone 06
6 Sep 1974

The Patacamaya Astronomical Observatory opens

Under the Bolivia–USSR scientific cooperation agreement, whose implementation the Institute took on in late 1973. Rector Jorge Siles Salinas; Soviet promoters Vitaly Cheleaguine and Yuri Spirin. Satellite geodesy was done there, with missions from Czechoslovakia as well. A year earlier the University Planetarium had opened.

InstitutionMilestone 08
1976

The Institute absorbs the Bolivian Geophysical Institute

The arc closes: the institution that twenty years earlier had helped create a state body ends up absorbing it. Out of it come the Andean Charaña–San Borja geotransect — the origin of UNESCO's worldwide geotransect programme — and the first magnetic and gravimetric charts of Bolivia.

InstitutionMilestone 08
15 Aug 1975

Aerosol agreement with the University of Antwerp

The results show pollution three times lower than that of Antwerp. In 1974 the Seguencoma Magnetic Observatory had been installed with the Carnegie Institution.

AtmosphereMilestone 09
1972

Centauro

In Chacaltaya chamber No. 15 an interaction appears that should not exist: dozens of charged hadrons and virtually no neutral pions. It is named Centauro for its brutally asymmetric shape. Five "classic" Centauros will be identified at Chacaltaya, and more than forty events of the same type counting the Pamirs. For thirty years some fifteen hypotheses will circulate to explain it.

ScienceMilestone 07
1970s–90s

Fireballs and the Centauro puzzle

For thirty years the Brazil–Japan Collaboration documents multiple pion production through the fireballs postulated by Hasegawa, and identifies three excited states of nuclear matter with Guaraní names: mirim (2–3 GeV), açu (15–30 GeV) and guaçu (100–300 GeV). The results are later calibrated against the large accelerators of the United States and Europe.

ScienceMilestone 07
1980s

Chacaltaya–Pamir: three mountains, four countries

Out of the Collaboration come IUPAP's International Emulsion Chamber Committee and the Chacaltaya–Pamir Collaboration, linking three high-altitude stations: Chacaltaya (5,200 m), Pamir in the USSR (4,370 m) and Mount Fuji (3,750 m). At the height of the Cold War, with the Bolivian station the highest of the three. The collaboration's second seminar is held in 1982 in La Paz and Rio de Janeiro.

InternationalMilestone 07
May 1986

An excess from Scorpius X-1

The SYS experiment verifies a significant excess of hadron-poor showers from the direction of the X-ray binary Scorpius X-1, and an excess of diffuse gamma emission along the galactic plane. It is the closest Chacaltaya came to a source detection. In those same years the Turin group observes gamma-ray arrival directions from Supernova 1987A.

ScienceMilestone 10
1980s–90s

SYS: the mountain's two techniques in a single instrument

The SYS experiment combines nuclear emulsions and an air-shower detector into a hybrid instrument, and searches for diffuse high-energy gamma-ray emission from hadron-poor showers. It surveys eight X-ray sources and the galactic centre: every result is negative. For twenty years the emulsion chamber and the surface array had run in parallel without meeting; here they come together.

ScienceMilestone 06
1982

"Out of all proportion"

The physicist John Linsley writes in Physics Today that the research done at Chacaltaya between 1950 and 1980 improved the understanding of cosmic rays "out of all proportion" when compared with countries in similar conditions of development.

InternationalMilestone 04
1982

"Near a minimum" in 1970, recovered by 1982

The physicist Larry W. Jones, of the University of Michigan, writes after visiting Bolivia and Brazil that he was impressed once again by "the unique nature of Mount Chacaltaya", and compares that year's programmes with the ones he had seen in 1970, "when they were near a minimum". It is the third international endorsement in the dossier, alongside the IUPAP declaration of 1964 and Linsley's letter of that same 1982.

InternationalMilestone 06
The mountain today
1989

The OMEGA proposal

With the Cosmic Ray Research Laboratory of the University of Tokyo: a 900 m² emulsion chamber surrounded by eighty scintillators over 40,000 m². It was never built, but it set the ambition of what would follow.

ScienceMilestone 10
1992

A telescope for the Sun's neutrons

Nagoya University installs on top of the Rossi hall the third telescope of its international solar neutron network: four square metres of scintillator measuring from September, and still measuring today. With it, the Bolivian group signed the detection of neutrons from the flares of 24 November 2000 and 7 September 2005. In 1994 Carlos Aguirre backed the cooperation before the Ambassador of Japan.

InternationalMilestone 09
1994

Half a century in figures

600 original scientific contributions and 120 undergraduate and postgraduate theses between 1952 and 1994.

Institution
1995

Ozone and UV Radiation Laboratory

The atmospheric line that began in 1942 with an actinometer continues with modern instrumentation. The LAGO collaboration will join later.

AtmosphereMilestone 09
2003–2004

Science corrects itself

Kopenkin, Fujimoto — one of the founders of the Collaboration — and Sinzi publish "Solution to the Centauro puzzle": the correspondence between the two storeys of the chamber was incorrect, and without it no new physics is required. The following year Ohsawa, Shibuya and Tamada confirm the error but hold that the event remains peculiar. The site's most famous finding was revised by its own authors; the debate is not closed.

ScienceMilestone 07
2008

LAGO starts taking data at Chacaltaya

Three water Cherenkov detectors of the Latin American Giant Observatory, the Latin American network of high-altitude sites devoted to gamma-ray bursts. Bolivia is a founding country of the collaboration, begun in 2005 together with Argentina and Mexico. A collaboration paper describes Chacaltaya as the highest and oldest observatory in the world.

ScienceMilestone 09
2009

The Chacaltaya glacier disappears

The mountain that hosted the world's highest ski run loses its ice. The site that measures the climate becomes a witness to it as well.

AtmosphereMilestone 09
2011

GAW/CHC Global Atmosphere Watch station

At 5,240 metres, one of the very few global high-altitude stations on the planet, in the World Meteorological Organization's network. It is run by the UMSA Atmospheric Physics Laboratory with partners from France, Germany, Sweden, Switzerland, Italy, Finland and the United States. It measures greenhouse gases, pollutants, aerosols and black carbon in the planet's background atmosphere. Eighty years of atmospheric series over the same mountain.

Atmosphere⚠ Nov or Dec 2011 depending on the source
Oct 2010

Seven Cherenkov light detectors on the BASJE array

Yoshiki Tsunesada (Tokyo Institute of Technology) commissions with Pedro Miranda, Juan Salinas and Wilfredo Tavera a hybrid system: 49 scintillation counters over 500 × 650 m and seven non-imaging Cherenkov detectors, to measure the composition of cosmic rays above the knee of the spectrum. The seven boxes, with motorised lids, will measure on their own some 700 hours of moonless nights in 2013–2014.

InternationalMilestone 06
2015

BASJE’s surface array and Cherenkov project stop measuring

On the same site since 1961: the small array of 1987 and Yoshiki Tsunesada’s seven Cherenkov light detectors (2010) cease in 2015 ⚠. The muon detector of the Rossi hall was not part of that stage.

ScienceMilestone 06
2 May 2016

Takaaki Kajita travels to Bolivia

The 2015 Nobel laureate in Physics, then director of the ICRR at the University of Tokyo, arrives to drive forward OMEGA's heir. UMSA awards him an honorary doctorate. Fifty-seven years after the two air tickets to Moscow, the director of that same Japanese house returns to the same mountain to sign the next experiment.

InternationalMilestone 10
Sep 2022

ALPAQUITA starts observing

ALPACA's prototype — 18,450 m², 97 scintillators and a 900 m² muon detector, a quarter of the final array — takes its first observations, and has been operating stably since April 2023.

ScienceMilestone 10
2024

The Moon shadow

ALPAQUITA detects the deficit of cosmic rays the Moon casts by blocking them, with a significance of 8σ and an angular resolution of about 1.0°, matching the simulations. It is the calibration standard for instruments of this kind: proof that the detector sees what it is meant to see, with the precision expected.

ScienceMilestone 10
today

ALPACA: the southern sky above 100 TeV

Andes Large-area PArticle detector for Cosmic-ray physics and Astronomy: an 83,000 m² surface array with 401 detectors and a 5,400 m² underground muon detector, at 4,740 m altitude, between the ICRR of the University of Tokyo and the IIF of UMSA. Its prototype ALPAQUITA is already taking data. It will be the first instrument capable of observing the southern-hemisphere sky in gamma rays above 100 TeV. The property is not protected as a ruin, but as a scientific asset with a committed future.

ScienceMilestone 10

About this chronology

Events marked ⚠ have dates the consulted sources do not agree on. The site shows the discrepancy rather than choosing in silence: each milestone explains the disagreement and points to where the primary documentation that would settle it should be sought.

See also: People — who made each of these events happen. (Spanish only for now.)

Main sources: Carlos Aguirre Bastos, Medio siglo de ciencia en Bolivia (1996) · Cássio Leite Vieira and Antonio Augusto Passos Videira, "Chacaltaya: um laboratório nas nuvens" (2019) · Nature 159 and 160 (1947) · IIF–UMSA materials.